Slow Boat To Indo China (Part #2)

We got up early, breakfasted, bought supplies and headed back down to get on the boat. We all crammed on again, and the whole routine started again. I managed to finish the book I was reading, which I really enjoyed. Wrote the first part of this journal entry, tried to sleep (not happening), look at the mountains and forests passing by, etc... This time however, they crammed more people on than ever. So many so in fact, along with bags of wheat and rice, that there was hardly any room for people to sit. A lady kept coming up and down the boat rearranging big sacks, and making big falang move, just so the boat was balanced out and didn't tip over.

We saw the fast boat pass us on a number of occasions. A few yards away from us they would pass. Half a dozen people packed tighter than we were, crash helmets on as if they would protect you from the strong undercurrent and hidden branches just beneath the surface. We all drew breath when these things went by, shook our heads, and were thankful that we were on the slow boat. Whatever the conditions and the constant danger of a numb bum, we had things far, far, better than those poor souls.

Around about 7 of so hours down the Mekong we reached Luang Prabang. The old capital of Laos, it is now a UNESCO World heritage Site. What this means is, that the French after years of colonial rule now feel guilty. This guilt manifests itself by them pouring aid into the town, giving the people jobs. These jobs seem to exclusively about building covered sewerage systems underneath the pavements. They dig a long channel down the edge of the road, and then build a brick pavement over the top. They are building them everywhere.

Before we even had one of these pavements under our feet the touts for the numerous guesthouses landed on us. One guy among the many offered to pay out tuk-tuk ride if we went to his guesthouse, so we did. It was nice enough, if not a little expensive. 250 baht, or $8, or about 80,000 kip. The whole money situation in Laos is deeply confusing. Their currency is Kip, but they ready accept U.S. Dollars and Thai Baht. Or any combination of all three. They only do rough conversions, so you are never quite sure where you are at with it all. The first thing we did the next day was go and get our U.S. Dollars changed for Kip. Dealing with just one currency, and getting used to that, makes life a whole lot easier.

Our new American friend stayed at the same guesthouse, so we had dinner together that first night, and went out to explore the town the next day. We are staying on the pennisula, in the older part of the town. You can see the French colonial influence in the architecture, and yes it is true what they say, it is a beautiful place. Also we got to wind down, and get a feel for the real Laos. Chilled is an understatement. Laid back in the extreme. Life goes slowly in Laos, people coast from place to place. There are almost no cars, just motorbikes, the odd taxi, and people milling around on bicycles. Being such a small place, and the heat not being too oppressive, it is easy to walk anywhere in Luang Prabang. Which is what we have done basically for the past two days.

We've milled around the streets, sat outside streets cafes and restaurants. Meandered around the market, and sauntered around the pennisula. We even wandered around a temple or two, and ended up talking to a young monk who was building a statue of a sitting Buddha out of bricks and cement. He explained this was one of many he was to make while a monk, but he planned to go to university and travel after he had finished his time as a monk. He was learning English, French, Spanish and was going to try Japanese, although he said he was leaving learning German for another lifetime. We chatted, and we helped him with some of his questions about English.

There are so many young monks here. Buddism was banned for a long time in Laos, only being allowed again in the last few years. It is still a communist country, even if it has opened its borders and the U.S. has lifted trade sanctions. Laos is the most bombed country ever! Over 9 years during the Vietman War, the U.S. dropped $2.2 million worth of bombs on Laos every day. The country is still littered with UXO, and it is thought that it will take another hundred years to clear it all. So in this country you do not wander off the beaten track.